Santa Catalina, a Royal Hideaway Hotel Review, Las Palmas, Gran Canaria, Spain
Breakfast like a monarch at the basement Doramas Restaurant’s lavish banquet-style buffet, which spills over into a jazz brunch on Sundays with live performances. Gofio is a staple in Canarian larders but the range here of this toasted cornflour, which locals add to their cereal, is like nowhere else I’ve been, taking in spelt, chickpea, wheat, maize, and barley.
Lunch at pimped-up pool bar Camarote (kitchen open from 12pm to 5pm) specialises in Mediterranean cuisine with a twist and offers starters such as cherry gazpacho (€12/£11) and mains like soupy Calasparra rice with lobster (€32/£29). In the similarly smart-casual 1890 La Bodeguita, with stone walls and a see-through kitchen, you can order tapas from 1pm through to 11:30pm. Try the cheese platter featuring Canarian and mainland Iberia quesos of the calibre of the Basque Country’s Idiazábal, Manchego from Castilla-La Mancha and Fuerteventura’s Maxorata (€25/£22). There’s an excellent choice of craft beers including Gran Canaria’s very own Jaira, offering a sophisticated take on an IPA (€6/£5 a bottle).
It’s an altogether more formal affair at the Poemas Restaurant by Hermanos Padrón (the Michelin-starred brothers from neighbouring Tenerife). Book a table in advance and choose between two tasting menus (eight courses [€75/£67] or 16 [€90/£80] ) from the comfort of your velvet chair. Dishes might include red prawns with Nantua sauce and coffee, grilled white asparagus with a local flower cheese and pistachio pesto, and for dessert, corn taco with black garlic and yogurt.
Up top, as in the Alis Rooftop Bar (complete with infinity pool), shouty cocktails from inventive mixologist Marco Martínez hold your attention long after the novelty of their presentation has faded.
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